Trattoria Da Bussè is a Pontremoli institution. Located in the alley next to the Duomo, Da Bussè has been around since 1930, when Pietro Bertocchi first started serving soup to the market traders setting up their stalls in Piazza Duomo at dawn. Da Bussè evolved into the place where locals met for a good meal, discussions and debate, or even a lesson in the local dialect over a glass of wine and a slice of the local speciality, torta d’erbi. Today, it is famous for its slow food and is sought out by locals and visiting foodies alike.
Da Bussè has remained true to its roots, serving regional dishes made from fresh local produce – proper slow food from Lunigiana with its influences from Emilia Romagna, Liguria and Tuscany. The daughter of Pietro Bertocchi, Antoinette, rules the kitchen, and the menu, which is never written down, varies according to the time of year, although Lunigiana’s most famous dish, testaroli with pesto, is always available. Luciano Bertocchi, Antoinette’s brother and a retired headmaster and farmer, jovially helps in the restaurant. Produce from his farm is likely to turn up on your plate and his honey, including the DOP chestnut and acacia honey from Lunigiana, is for sale.
Listed in the Slow Food Guide, Osterie d’Italia, for many years, Da Bussè is a quirky place. Located in a series of vaulted rooms with white washed walls and frescoes, it sees itself mainly as a trattoria for locals. There is no website, no advertising, only open for lunch, and the sign on the door is quite blunt. Mushrooms are not served. Neither is coffee. However, the latter provides the perfect excuse to visit the stylish Café degli Svizzeri around the corner for a coffee, although unfortunately one is unlikely to have room for one of their famous pastries.Trattoria Da Bussè Piazza Duomo 54027 Pontremoli, MS Telephone 0187 831371 Open only for lunch and closed on Fridays.